The Fire Nobody Filed: Half a Century at the Door to Hell
You see it before you reach it. Driving north from Ashgabat across the Karakum, the desert is black and featureless after sunset, and then a low orange stain appears on the underside of the sky, hours before the road gets there. Up close the ground is warm through the soles of your boots. The pit is roughly seventy metres across and perhaps twenty deep, and until recently its walls and floor were covered with hundreds of separate flames, some the size of a candle and some the size of a car, all of them fed by gas rising out of the rock. It roars. The heat pushes you back from the rim. Local people call it the Gate of Hell, and the name has stuck in every language the tourists brought with them.
The story that comes with the crater is told everywhere, in the same words, with the same confidence. In 1971 a team of Soviet geologists was drilling for natural gas in the Karakum. The ground beneath the rig gave way and swallowed it, leaving a wide pit that began to vent methane. Worried that the gas would poison people and livestock nearby, the engineers set it alight, expecting the pocket to burn itself out within a few weeks. It has been burning ever since.
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